For the French luxury house Hermès, the appointment of Grace Wales Bonner as Creative Director of Men’s Ready-to-Wear is more than a high-profile hire. It signals a deliberate strategic shift, a recalibration of heritage, craft and global relevance. Here’s my take on what this move says about Hermès’s direction, its long-term strategy and what it means for luxury at large.

A historic appointment, but also a strategic pivot

On 21 October 2025, Hermès announced that Grace Wales Bonner would succeed Véronique Nichanian, who led Hermès Menswear for approximately 37 years.
Wales Bonner is a London-born designer whose namesake label intertwines European tailoring, Afro-Atlantic narrative and culture-rooted storytelling.
For Hermès a brand synonymous with time-tested craftsmanship, luxury rarity and slow-burn growth, this kind of creative change is rare. The fact that the house is entrusting its menswear direction to a designer known for conceptual depth and cultural commentary signals a shift in tone.

It’s not just about the next collection. It’s about how Hermès sees itself in the evolving global luxury landscape.

Strategy foundations: creation, craftsmanship, exclusive distribution

Hermès has long defined its strategy around three pillars: creation, craftsmanship and an exclusive, balanced distribution network.
That means:

• Creation = objects designed to last, to be passed down, to carry meaning.

• Craftsmanship = deep artisanal know-how, many métiers (leather goods, silk, saddlery) rooted in France and Europe.

• Exclusive distribution = limiting supply, avoiding over-exposure, maintaining aura and desirability.

Setting aside hype and chasing volume, Hermès has stayed disciplined even as rivals chase fast growth. For example, in 2024 it maintained strong profitability and brand value despite a challenging luxury market.
So, the appointment of Wales Bonner is not a radical abandonment of the old, but rather a signal that Hermès is evolving the “creation” pillar more consciously: embedding culture, identity and contemporary relevance into its heritage frame.

What the hire reveals: direction & tone

Here’s what I believe Hermès is signalling and why it matters:

1. A push for cultural depth and relevance
Wales Bonner’s work has always explored identity, heritage, Black diaspora, craft and narrative.
By bringing her in, Hermès is acknowledging that luxury today is not just about rarity and status but about meaning and context. The luxury consumer is changing younger, globally connected, culturally conscious. Hermès is positioning itself to speak to that audience, while retaining its craft DNA.

2. Reinforcing menswear as growth engine
Luxury menswear has been one of the growth pockets of fashion in recent years, and Hermès has strong foundations (though often overshadowed by its leather goods). The menswear creative shift signals Hermès wants to lean into this category more boldly.
It’s a strategic hedge: diversify reliance beyond bags and leather, widen relevancy, accelerate momentum.

3. Heritage meets new voices
While heritage is front and centre (Hermès never abandons its roots), this appointment blends tradition with fresh perspective. Wales Bonner is the first Black woman to hold such a role at Hermès.
That matters symbolically and strategically: representation, modern narratives, stronger brand story for global markets.

4. Slow-burn, not hype-chasing
Notice that Wales Bonner’s debut for Hermès is scheduled for January 2027, after a transition period.
This aligns with Hermès’s method: measured, thoughtful change rather than fast, disruptive reinvention. It suggests Hermès intends to evolve, not pivot wildly.

My perspective: smart move with caveats

From where I stand, this is a smart move by Hermès. But it does carry some risks and will demand careful execution.

Why it works:

• Merging craft excellence with cultural richness increases Hermès’s relevance without diluting its luxury aura.

• It signals forward-thinking leadership and will likely energize the men’s side of the business.

• The house retains its artisanal integrity while engaging newer narratives a rare balance.

What to watch:

• Brand coherence: Hermès’s identity rests on subtle luxury, craft-driven savoir-faire. If the new direction becomes too “loud” or trend-driven, it could threaten the understated aura.

• Supply & scarcity: If Hermès leans too heavily on growth via menswear or culture stories, it risks dilution of its exclusivity unless managed tightly.

• Consumer perception: Long-time Hermès customers expect a certain timelessness. The new creative language must respect that while evolving.

• Operational alignment: How well the house’s workshops, artisans, and production systems adapt to potentially new materials, cultural references or collaborations remains to be seen.

Strategic context: growth, resilience & sustainability

Hermès’s broader strategy emphasizes sustainable growth, deeper craftsmanship and responsible expansion. For instance:

• The house aims to certify all its 44 supply chains and has already made substantial emission reductions.

• It continues to invest in France, opening new leather goods workshops (its 23rd factory was opened recently) and preserving artisan skills.

• Retail strategy is selective: rather than mass expansion, Hermès prefers curated locations, unique store experiences and measured growth.

So, the Wales Bonner hire fits into this broader strategy: culture + craft + incremental expansion = relevance ahead of pure scale.

My final thought

In the luxury world where change can feel chaotic, Hermès’s move feels deceptively quiet but actually significant. The house isn’t chasing hype; it’s evolving its voice. Grace Wales Bonner brings a layered narrative, a fresh generation’s perspective and creative currency and Hermès provides the heritage, craftsmanship and global platform.

If this plays out as I believe it will, we could witness a Hermès reinvigorated: retaining its timeless appeal while speaking more boldly to our era. For lovers of luxury, craftsmanship and style, that’s an exciting proposition.

But let’s remember: the proof will lie in the collection. In how Hermès weaves Wales Bonner’s vision with its own values. In how men’s ready-to-wear performs. And most importantly in how Hermès stays exclusive, curated and craft-driven while embracing this new chapter.

Hermès hasn’t lost its way. It’s just setting a new course one where heritage and culture, craft and relevance, meet beautifully. And I’m looking forward to the journey,